Heidi Ahvenainen: Looking back on Lockroy

19/06/2020

I have lived on a tiny island in Antarctica. Twice. That’s something I never expected to be able to say three years ago. Now while sitting at home waiting for the global pandemic to blow over there’s no place on earth I would rather be.

I was lucky enough to travel to Antarctica for the first time almost two years ago to work as base leader at Port Lockroy for the 2018-19 season. Even after all the careful preparation and training I didn’t really know what to expect, I don’t think anybody really can. I was introduced to one of the wildest places on earth with harsh ever-changing weather, long days of hard work and zero privacy. But also to the untouched nature and wildlife that I never thought I would encounter. And how could I not mention the people! Living on a small island as far away from civilisation as you can get without running water or other modern day comforts unites people.

After my first season at Port Lockroy I, like so many other old Lockroy crew, found my way to the ships that visit us during the season. I joined the Albatros Expeditions team as an expedition guide to return to the white continent and see places outside of our safe harbour at Port Lockroy. When UKAHT asked if I would like to join the new team for the last two months of the 2019-20 season, and Albatros Expeditions offered to drop me off there at the end of my contract, it seemed like fate. I was obviously meant to go back and I am very happy that I did.

At Lockroy no two seasons are the same. Even though daily life consists of the same activities – mostly managing ship visits – it really is the people who make the season what it is and I’m lucky to look back at two great ones. As I was joining the team only for the last two months I didn’t have specific responsibilities this time around. When visitors asked what my role on the island was I often introduced myself as general assistant, I helped with whatever was needed. It was a big change compared to my first season as the base leader when I was responsible for overseeing the smooth running of the base and health and safety; a responsibility that cannot be taken lightly in a remote place like Antarctica. After getting used to my new role I enjoyed it a lot. I had more opportunities to take in my surroundings and enjoy the little moments without having a million things on my to-do list and hanging on to my VHF radio like my life depended on it. A freedom that I welcomed with open arms as I felt I had the opportunity to experience two different sides of Lockroy life.

Although the ship visits take most of the team’s time at Lockroy we also have multiple maintenance tasks to do every season. These are the days I always enjoy the most. They break the daily routine and allow us to do something with our own hands that helps UKAHT preserve the history of the island, and the whole continent. It also helps that the weather has to be good for any outdoor maintenance work to happen, so we can usually enjoy some sunshine while working.

During my first year our biggest tasks included repainting parts of Bransfield House and fixing leaking holes on the walls. This year we got to tackle the boatshed that desperately needed a fresh coat of paint. The buildings need regular TLC to withstand the Antarctic winters and the feeling when you leave the island at the end of the season and see the buildings in better shape than they were on arrival fills you with pride. We left knowing we had done our bit in preserving the unique history of the island, and took away with us so many memories of our own.

In all honesty, as hard as we try, it is very difficult to try to explain the experience of living at Port Lockroy. It’s the big hurdles you overcome together, the never ending daily tasks and long days that make you a team and fill your time, the small moments that make it the unbelievable experience that it is. Like sitting on the landing site together after the last visitor has left the island and the ship has sailed to the Neumayer Channel, or watching a whale swim by, and the feeling of being the only people on earth. These moments are the ones that I remember with the greatest fondness of my time at Port Lockroy.

Heidi