Returning to Antarctica: A conservation journey to Detaille and Port Lockroy

28/06/2024

Conservation carpenter Graham Gillie reflects on his return to two of our historic sites – 14 years after his first visit.

I last set foot on the frozen continent 14 years ago. In the intervening time, I had established a life in a Scottish village with my wife where we raised two kids. I was thrilled to be returning to the Antarctic for the fourth time. I work with the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust to carry out conservation work on historic buildings. Initially, the remote Detaille Island was followed by Port Lockroy. 

I was particularly interested in returning to Port Lockroy as I was part of a team of three who built the Nissen accommodation hut 14 years ago. The original Nissen hut stood on the same site from 1944 but had collapsed by 1994. The new Nissen is now used as staff accommodation.

Graham reconstructing the Nissen in 2006 (Credit: UKAHT/Graham Gillie)

When we finally emerged from the tempestuous waters of the Drake Passage, I caught sight of the rugged coastline and the jagged peaks of the Antarctic Peninsula. The landscape was just as breathtaking as I remember and I was immediately exhilarated to be back again in that unique environment. 

Detaille, sunshine and storms

My first task was to join a team of conservators at Base W, Detaille Island, a site of historical significance. The island was home to a British research station that operated during the 1950s. In 1959, the base was abandoned in haste as sea ice blocked access to the relief ship. The team grabbed what they could and crossed the ice on dog sledges to reach their ship. The buildings have remained almost unchanged since that day.

Dale and Graham at work at Detaille (Credit: UKAHT/Graham Gillie)

It is UKAHT’s job to ensure the buildings are kept weather-tight to help protect the artefacts inside and preserve the history of scientific endeavour for future generations. Our mission was to assess the condition of the base and its surroundings, to make repairs where necessary and to implement measures to protect the buildings from the harsh weather.

Graham and Dale felt the roof of the emergency store at Detaille (Credit: UKAHT/Lesley Johnston)

This can sometimes be challenging work in a polar climate. We experience the full range of weather conditions from glorious calm sunny “dingle” days to wild weather. Even in mid-summer, the bay regularly fills with huge chunks of ice driven in by the bitter southerly wind. As my colleague Dale and I struggled with sheets of roofing felt in the icy wind we could appreciate the difficulties faced by the original inhabitants of these buildings.

Detaille is a spectacular place; the scenery is constantly changing. Every day, icebergs shift in the bay, driven by the wind and tides. We often watched passing pods of whales as we went about our work. 

The whole team at Detaille (Credit: UKAHT/Graham Gillie)

Port Lockroy: the return 

After successfully completing our work on Detaille Island, it was time for me to say a fond farewell to the team and set off on my journey up the peninsula. Port Lockroy is another historic site that holds a special place in my memory. It was here that I had carried out conservation work in 2006. I was involved in building the Nissen hut in 2009, a simple yet sturdy shelter that serves as an accommodation building for the staff who work at the historic site. 

The Nissen hut in 2024 (Credit: UKAHT/Graham Gillie)

I was eager to see how the Nissen had weathered the harsh Antarctic conditions over the intervening years. Upon my arrival, I was relieved and delighted to find that the hut had stood the test of time – it looked as good as it had when I left 14 years earlier. It was certainly more comfortable than sleeping in the tents on the ice at Detaille Island! 

The base at Port Lockroy was built in 1944 so is now in its 80th year. As conservation carpenters, it is our job to assess the condition of the buildings. We carried out repairs and maintenance to protect the fabric against the harsh Antarctic environment while preserving as much of the original structure as possible.

A chinstrap and gentoos at the Boat Shed (Credit: UKAHT/Graham Gillie)

The island is also home to a gentoo penguin colony. It is a rare privilege to live with these animals through the breeding season. However, the penguins have no understanding of building maintenance and will often nest in the most inconvenient places. We must wait for the penguin chicks to grow and then leave the nest before we can access parts of the building to continue our work. 

Penguins have no understanding of building maintenance (Credit: UKAHT/Graham Gillie)

My return to Antarctica was unforgettable, reminding me of my passion for this place and for the extraordinary people who work in this wild and challenging environment. We do our best to preserve the human history of Antarctica with the hope that it helps people understand more about this fragile continent.

– Graham Gillie, Conservation Carpenter