Port Lockroy blog 5: Are you bringing a plus one?

18/12/2024

In her second stint at Port Lockroy, general assistant Lisa Ford reports on opening up Goudier Island for the season.

Every year, a new team heads south to work at Port Lockroy for the austral summer. A dream job for many, that only a few are lucky enough to do. After receiving over 800 applicants this year, a team of five was chosen.  

Each year, someone who has previously worked at Port Lockroy accompanies the new team for a few weeks to help them settle into the Port Lockroy groove. I was here last year, loved it, made amazing friends, and, as such, am this year’s “plus one”. 

Lisa at Port Lockroy last year (UKAHT/Lisa Ford)

As the person who generally knows how things work around here (there are always surprises), I can be that extra pair of hands during the busy time at the beginning of the season to help wake the buildings up after their wintry slumber and support the new team get things going… and of course, there is the annual digging out to be done!  

It has been many years since I first set eyes on the Antarctic in my 20s and it still makes me quite emotional each time I return. I hoped that the new team would fall in love with this place as I have, and marvel at the magnificence of the mountains, ice and snow. Of course, they have done just that: it is impossible not to! 

Maggie and George digging out the base (UKAHT/Lisa Ford)

This year after a gentle Drake Passage on the MS Roald Amundsen, we opened up Damoy Hut and then got a boat ride around to Port Lockroy to start digging out the Nissen Hut, AKA our living accommodation. This was a task I was not here to do last year at the beginning of the season but loved the challenge and it was fun to witness the opening up after the winter months. Thanks to the two ship’s crew members (one broken spade later) who helped us, soon enough, the lights and heating were on, communications up and cups of tea all around… we were in! 

First things first (UKAHT/Dale Ellis)

Beds were made and our first night with hot water bottles and excitement as the Port Lockroy season began, what a special time and achievement for everyone including all the UK-based staff who were amazing in training and preparing everyone for a season in Antarctica. 

So, I find myself writing this in a very familiar place. The red checked curtains of the Nissen hut (our home), snow flurries, magnificent mountains and glaciers all around. The gentoo penguins waddle by and snowy sheathbills tap dance on the roof of the Nissen hut – ear plugs are essential if you are to get any sleep around here!  

The resident snowy sheathbills (UKAHT/Lisa Ford)

A lot of people have asked me, “What’s it like coming back after last year for me?” It’s a remarkably simple answer: a joy! 

It has been lovely to see the new team jump right into life here and settle in so well. The initial mountain of snow we had to dig into and find a way onto the island from the shore making steps for visitors was a particular challenge, followed by more extensive clearing of the entrances in the Nissen hut. No more broken spades but we have spent days clearing snow. 

Once again, we can welcome visitors to the island to visit the museum, gift shop and post office this year so they can help support our conservation work. For me, this is quite different to last season when we mainly joined the visitors on board their ships and set up pop-up shops and post offices. It is so much easier to walk over to Bransfield House and welcome visitors than the daily ship commutes we did last year!  

Enjoy the peace at Port Lockroy (UKAHT/Lisa Ford)

The team have created a really welcoming gift shop for visitors to the museum and Dale leads us with all the fundraising and merchandising. Aoife has set up the museum, reintroducing all the artefacts that were put away during the winter months. George is in the thick of the postal service and the many stamps. Maggie is out monitoring the wildlife and Lou coordinates everything, communicating with the ships and making sure that life here is busy but organised. 

So much for me is familiar… last year’s expedition crews are back, friendly faces who also helped us last year and continue this year, providing fresh water, showers on board ships and gifts of fresh food.  Franking stamps and getting the post ready and out to ships heading to the Falklands is just the same. 

Mail prepped and bound for the Falklands (UKAHT/Lisa Ford)

There are, of course, the penguins and no change to their funny ways, obsession with pebbles and nest building at this time of year… or the number of photos I am taking! 

One thing that was so nearly very different this year, but sadly did not happen, was to meet up with my husband who also works in these parts for the austral summer months. It was looking like he might unexpectedly be arriving here on a passing ship and we might get to briefly show him Port Lockroy. Many tried to make this happen, but we missed each other by about 30 miles… in Antarctica, that is extremely close! But hey-ho, it will not be until May now! 

This is Lisa's second stint at Port Lockroy (UKAHT/Lisa Ford)

So, I am preparing to leave this beautiful place, my job is nearly done for this season, and the team are all settled in until March. I will be away soon, sadly leaving but with Christmas to organise at home for my family. 

Last year, I raised a glass to those in the UK I was missing. This year, I will raise a glass at home to the Port Lockroy team who I will miss dearly but wish them a fantastic season as I am sure they will have… just make sure you continue to love this place as much as I do and enjoy every minute of it.

– Lisa Ford, General Assistant, Port Lockroy