Port Lockroy Update
1 - 10th November 2009
We've made it and we're here! Physically, mentally, geographically
and politically we are in Antarctica and loving every minute. After
a hectic start at Heathrow (where Eleanor was nearly bumped off the
flight and the plane was delayed) the journey began at last and took
us via Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, and the lunar landscapes of El
Calafate before we arrived in Ushuaia - the southernmost city in the
world and the point of our departure South. Ushuaia is a bustling
port town nestled beneath soaring, spiky, snow-capped mountains, and
we spent three days running errands, finishing tasks from home and
buying last minute bits and pieces so we could head off to the Great
White South with clean slates. We stayed at the wonderfully
cosy Posada Costa Serena hostel, which had views over the port to
watch the cargo coming in and ships going out. We were treated to a
wonderful dinner at Jonathan and Roxanna Selby's beautiful house
overlooking the mountains
and were given a great introduction to Jonathan's nautical
navigation software.
After many an Argentinian steak and much red wine, we headed down to
the dock to board the spectacular Lindblad ship National Geographic
Explorer. She has everything you could ever need or imagine, and the
Expedition Team and Ship's Crew are second to none. They have
thought of everything and we are learning and discovering new and
exciting things every single day. Claire and Eleanor are bunking in
with the crew and Tudor is sharing a room with Bob Farrell, the new
Station Manager at the US Station, Palmer.
Our voyage South began with dinner in the beautiful Beagle Channel,
but soon entered the open waters of the ominous Drake Passage.
Despite the relatively benign crossing, two of us spent Saturday in
our bunks with seasickness. But
after brilliant care from Jack Putnam (Lindblad Doctor and last
year's Ice-Cream Machine Benefactor Extraordinaire) we were soon
back on track and by Sunday morning felt like Harbord, who noted
after 10 days aboard the Nimrod with Shackleton "Some of us are over
the seasick stage and no longer want to die". By breakfast time we
were fully recovered, and as we approached the South Shetland
Islands, we were given a mandatory Antarctic Landings briefing to
prepare for our first trip ashore. This briefing is
given on every ship that comes South, and covers the use of the
ship's zodiacs and what to do/not to do on land. After the briefing
the mudroom was full of passengers hoovering out their pockets and
backpacks to ensure no foreign plant life was taken ashore, and soon
after the zodiacs were zooming back and forth carrying 120 extremely
excited passengers to take their first steps south of 60°. Yankee
Harbour was our first destination and upon arrival we were treated
to the spectacular sight of 12,000 Gentoo penguins
arriving from the water, making their way up to the high ground to
find their nesting site from the previous year. We were completed
enthralled by their squeak-and-gargle calls to each other, their
inquisitive wanderings and their voracious defence of their nesting
'spot'. We were only feet away from a Weddell seal, and saw brown
skuas and white petrels. The day was rounded off with cocktails with
the Captain and a delicious Lindblad Expeditions' Welcome Aboard
Dinner.
Yesterday was without doubt one of the most exciting days of our
lives. At 0630 we were up on the bridge with the Captain and the
Expedition Team looking out at Baily Head, assessing the viability
of a shore landing, and within the hour were out on the first zodiac
and running up the black
volcanic ash to high ground to escape the waves. Claire and Eleanor
were lucky enough to go up to the top ridges with Steve Forrest from
Oceanites to scout for Chinstrap Penguin nests, and after a fairly
steep climb were rewarded with stunning views out to the snow-capped
mountains of Livingston Island. The Chinstraps were fascinating to
watch: their ungainly waddle giving way to the most graceful of
courting dances, and we spotted a lone Macaroni hiding out on a
windswept rock.
After lunch some first class navigation by Captain Leif Skog led us
through the narrow pass of 'Neptune's Bellows' into the sheltered
and gloriously sunny inner bay of donut-shaped Deception Island.
With every passenger either on the bridge or on the bow, Explorer
expertly sliced through the fast ice and came to rest in the middle
of the bay. We spent a fantastic couple of hours playing football on
the sea ice, spotting leopard seals and pups, attempting to 'pull'
the ship with a rope through the ice and frequenting the fantastic
hot chocolate station. But the afternoon wasn't
over yet: within half an hour of getting back on board we were
pulling into Whaler's Bay to bathe in the geothermal springs in
front of the old base. Every night after dinner there's a
fascinating lecture on board, and last night's showed footage of the
incredible creatures the underwater specialist divers had found in
the dark and icy depths below.
This morning we woke up to the stunningly beautiful surroundings of
Cuverville Island and breakfasted amongst icebergs and snow-capped
peaks. Many passengers are heading out to kayak in the bay just now
and this afternoon we hope to spend this afternoon in Neko Harbour -
one of the most beautiful locations on the Antarctic Peninsula's
Danco Coast - and make our first, official continental landing.
Tonight we arrive at Lockroy and the air is thick with excitement.
Headtorches are at the ready, last-minute laundry has been washed
and dried, and every possible piece of technology is being charged
up to power us
through our first few days on base. Next instalment when we're
installed in our new home - watch this space!
Claire, Eleanor, and Tudor
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