Letters from Lockroy - 12 November 08

The Port Lockroy team of Rick, Jude, Laura and Nikki are happy to report that they have settled in at their new home for the coming 08-09 Antarctic season. We are all very proud to be supporting the UKAHT and feel very privileged to be living and working in the white continent on behalf of the Trust; we look forward to updating the Port Lockroy diaries as often as possible.

The team arrived at Goudier Island on a beautiful evening on Saturday 8th November. We all stood up on the bridge with Captain Olaf and Lisa Trotter of the National Geographic Endeavour as we sailed around Damoy Point and Bransfield House came into sight. Rick was particularly pleased to see that the buildings had fared very well through the winter months, and that the front door to ‘Base A’ was not too built up with snow. An absolutely stunning sunset haloed Mount Doumer – befitting of a truly amazing past week; we had enjoyed some fantastic landings and experiences onboard the Endeavour en route to Port Lockroy. Many thanks to National Geographic, Lindblad Expeditions and the entire team onboard for all their wonderful support in delivering us to Goudier Island! We thoroughly enjoyed our time onboard; read on!

Rick and his new team got off to a great start with a relatively smooth crossing of the Drake Passage and after just a day and a half at sea, we made our first landing at Barrientos Island at the north end of the Antarctic Peninsula. An icy cold wind was blowing – the reality of Antarctica – and we were all very appreciative of the gear that UKAHT Director Rachel Morgan (courtesy of Tog 24 and Chocolate Fish Merino) had sorted for us!

Later that evening, due to an unusually low sea ice cover for this time of year, we managed to work our way down the east side of the Peninsula into the Weddell Sea; a first for Rick which made the experience all the more special. This is an area that is often restricted to ice-breaker expedition tours even in the Austral summer when the sea ice is at its minimum extent. Captain Olaf navigated the ship down through the Antarctic Sound and we made a number of landings over the following days. These included Brown Bluff where we watched small armies of adelie penguins marching along the shore to find a safe spot to enter the sea while a leopard seal patrolled the shore; and Devil Island where Captain Olaf navigated exceptionally heavy sea ice before the expedition team took us on a zodiac cruise around small icebergs while adelies, blue eyed shags and even a sleepy weddell seal rested on the bergs and small ice floes. The day just kept getting better as later on that evening our expedition leader Lisa spotted three pods of Orcas - an awesome sight.

The following day we sailed back through the Antarctic Sound leaving the Weddell Sea behind us. We passed enormous tabular icebergs which had probably calved off the Larsen Ice Shelf and the Captain estimated their depth to be up to 200m. In the afternoon we visited Paulet Island, home to 100,000 pairs of nesting adelie penguins. The island was also home to the 22 men of Nordenskold’s expedition in 1903 when they were forced to overwinter in a small stone hut. Only one perished and a cross marks his burial place on the other side of the island. A truly humbling moment as we paid our respects. Having left the Antarctic Sound we made two landings in the Deception Island area. The first was at Bailey Head, a notoriously difficult shore landing. The expedition team handled the swell brilliantly, and once ashore we were rewarded with an incredible amphitheatre of nesting Chinstrap penguins. Once there they would mate, incubate the egg and not return to sea for approximately three weeks. The difficulties will come in the weeks to come when the Skuas will prey on vulnerable nests for eggs and small chicks.

The Endeavour sailed through Neptune’s Bellows, the half mile wide entrance into Deception Island. There are rocks lying under the water and it requires careful navigation by the captain to get the ships in safely. Once inside we landed at Pendulum Cove which was once a whale processing base and later a British base – a truly fascinating place. Buildings and remnants of the past still remain there and our thoughts were with the lives of the past inhabitants of this remote natural harbour. Jude even braved the thermal waters of Pendulum Cove and represented the Port Lockroy contingency with finesse by taking a polar plunge.

Moving ever southward towards Port Lockroy, gentoos were nesting on the lower slopes of Neko Harbour and we climbed up high above the sea to get a view right out over the bay. Later that day we arrived at Paradise Bay – an area that really is as stunning as it sounds. The Oceanites team (a penguin research group based in the United States) landed at Almirante Brown, and although the Argentine flag was flying, nobody was at home. Finally, the time had come for us to bid farewell to the National Geographic Endeavour; with the very kind assistance of Lisa and Robert, we set foot ashore and Rick opened the door to ‘Base A’. All was well inside, and the buildings looked to be in fantastic shape – testament to Rick and past guardians of Bransfield House. Finally, with gear temporarily laid out in the lounge, we took to sleeping bags and passed a comfortable first night in the bunk room; penguins and snowy sheathbills occasionally ‘tap dancing’ on the roof!

Closer inspection the next day revealed a considerable build up of snow around most of the buildings except the boatshed which always seems to remain clear, dry, and comparatively warm. Photos were taken (and we hope to post them on this website as soon as possible), and we set to clearing the snow from the bunk room windows and making a path from the boatshed landing and the chains landing, ready for the return of National Geographic Endeavour. Laura set about organising the museum and removing covers from the artefacts, whilst Jude and Nikki unpacked the shop. Endeavour returned on 10th November after part-navigating the Lemaire Channel (blocked 2/3 down by ice), and we welcomed our first visitors to Port Lockroy! It was wonderful to see so many smiling faces and business was brisk in the shop; invaluable for raising funds for UKAHT. The next morning brought an unscheduled yet very welcome visit from the Akademik Sergey Vavilov – her passengers braving horizontal snow to come and visit Port Lockroy – it was fantastic to see them all enjoying their time here. Over the past few days since we have arrived we have enjoyed brilliant blue skies and sunshine, the occasional snow flurry and also howling winds – it is all part of the experience and we are enjoying all varieties of Antarctic weather!

We are looking forward to a visit very soon from HMS Endurance, and to welcoming further visitors to Port Lockroy between now and beginning of March. We hope to update you all as regularly as possible, meanwhile we send best wishes to all our friends, family and supporters back in the UK and around the world. A special thank you to Rachel and Tudor Morgan for all their hard work in making this all possible. Port Lockroy has a very special place in British Antarctic history and we are very excited and grateful to play our part in its continuing story.

Letters from Lockroy - 18 November 08

It is Sunday afternoon at Port Lockroy, and whilst the folks at home might be taking an afternoon walk or enjoying a peaceful post-lunch moment or two, the team is busy about the base. Judith has a Father Christmas apron on and is baking a surprise for pudding tonight, Laura is scribbling frantically regarding some artefact or another, and Rick is shovelling snow outside the old generator shed. This year Bransfield House has seen a lot of snow around the building, which we have been trying to clear as soon as possible. Although snow insulates the building, it is also not good for the humidity inside the base. At present much of the rocks are covered in nice, clean white snow, but with the austral summer this will melt off. We even had a few penguins trying to nest on the roof thanks to the snowdrifts when we arrived!

It has been a steady start to the season since our arrival at Goudier Island aboard National Geographic Endeavour a week ago. We have welcomed visitors from Akademik Sergey Vavilov, HMS Endurance, Antarctic Dream, and just this morning from the sailing yacht Australis. We were delighted to receive a radio call on 13 November from HMS Endurance, to arrange a visit by the icebreaker to Port Lockroy, since they were in the area. Captain Gavin Pritchard and Chief Surveyor Keith Pullan were greeted by our Base Leader Rick Atkinson, and received a tour around 'Base A', before further Royal Navy personnel from HMS Endurance arrived by motorlaunch at the 'Chains Landing'. We were very privileged to enjoy the company of the Royal Navy, and it was fantastic to hear their words of encouragement and find out more about their lives at sea and work patrolling the Antarctic waters. This was also a useful occasion for Rick to meet HMS Endurance Operations Manager, Adam Northover, and Lieutenant Commander Nick Lucocq, to discuss the plan for installing the replacement Nissen Hut next season; a major project. Later that day we were invited back to HMS Endurance for dinner, and were fortunate enough to receive a tour and presentation by the Operations Manager. Captain Gavin Pritchard also presented Port Lockroy with a fantastic signed aerial picture of the vessel at work in the Southern Oceans. Many of the Royal Navy personnel were fascinated to learn about how we live and work at Port Lockroy, and so we thought we might share a glimpse into our everyday lives here down on the Antarctic Peninsula during the summer season...

The team (of four this season; Rick, Judith, Laura and Nikki) occupy the bunk room, towards the rear of Bransfield House. This is the old work room which was converted into living quarters in 1952, and was home for up to 9 men. Compact but cosy, this is where we sleep, cook, eat and generally spend free time when not making the most of the stunning surroundings outside. We have a small propane gas fire in the bunkroom, and sleep on the old wooden slatted bunks, just as they did in days gone by; however we are pleased to also have thermarest mattresses, as well as the traditional sheepskin rugs (courtesy of Edinburgh Woollen Mill) and polar sleeping bags on top. All food is shipped down by cruise ship from the UK, together with other provisions, such as cleaning and maintenance equipment. Jeldwen is kindly donating a new window for the new generator room/shop, and the stove has been generously gifted by Topstak Chimneys in Cardiff. Most of the provisions, together with stock for the gift shop (invaluable for raising funds for the Trust) is arriving with us on 24 November; meanwhile there are plenty of supplies from the previous season. Although the Port Lockroy team is 'on the ground' at the base, Rachel and Tudor Morgan, together with Rick, play a crucial role in making arrangements for operations from the UK - no small job! Helen Annan, who was at Port Lockroy last season (07-08) also helped out with packing boxes and buying groceries. We are of course also indebted to the support of our Chairman, Philippa Foster Back, together with the other Trustees. Kind gifts of provisions are often donated by visiting vessels, and from time to time we are invited on board to dine with guests and the expedition teams, and are only too happy to share our enthusiasm for the great white continent. Eight jerry cans are filled up with water from passing vessels at every opportunity, and we boil water on our small stove for washing up and general cleaning.

Below, Judith, Laura, and Nikki, in Port Lockroy 'uniform'.

Passing cruise ships also kindly let us on board to shower(every few days if we are lucky), and this is also how we manage our laundry. Life is simple, much as it was when the base was operational in the 40s and 50s, but very good! Our few concessions to modernity include ipods, a laptop, and a selection of photographic equipment! The base is powered by a small Honda petrol generator, that charges 12 volt batteries. These are housed in the old generator shed, which is also where Rick keeps his tools and workshop equipment, essential for the upkeep of Bransfield House. The old 'dark room' doubles up as a fridge for perishable food, as it is always cool. In 1958 the new generator room was added to 'Base A', which is now where we have our gift shop; the room is lovely and airy thanks to the many windows and stunning views out to Damoy Point - we can watch visitors arriving from the 'Chains Landing'. One of the original generators still stands in the middle of the room and is a source of fascination for many guests. Other artefacts such as packing crates from other historic bases, and a fantastic 'British Crown Land' sign are displayed alongside merchandise in the shop. Funds generated by the shop are key to supporting the UKAHT and keeping Port Lockroy open. Thanks to our remote location, we are able to happily avoid television and the internet, although we do have an Iridium satellite telephone, and can dial up to receive emails. This is fast becoming a popular way to communicate with vessels, although we still also use the HF and VHF radio. Life at Port Lockroy seems a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the western world; every morning we wake up to a hot drink, courtesy of our Base Leader, and the beauty of Antarctica. With the cruise ships now starting to arrive, it is going to be a very busy season! At present, the gentoos are busily building their nests out of pebbles and mating. We have spotted a few eggs being incubated by the parents, and it won't be too long before the first chicks hatch - we can't wait!

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