Letter From Lockroy - 19 February 2009

As the season is rapidly drawing to a close here at Port Lockroy, the team is making the most of the final fortnight and is as busy as ever around and about Base 'A'. There is much to do here and we are all anxious to complete the various jobs that need our attention before we bid farewell to Goudier Island on 3 March.

Until then, our thoughts are turned to the final reports that we have to prepare for the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (regarding the Post Office, shop, museum and general report). Jude has been busy preparing the post office supplies (stamps, first day covers and the like) ready for transfer back to Anton at Stanley Post Office in the Falkland Islands. Besides this, she has been kept busy with some complex philatelic requests from around the world - our Deputy Post Mistress has an eye for detail which makes her ideal for the job! Laura is progressing well with various archiving jobs in the museum, and recently has been concentrating on the old generator shed and the shop, which are of course still part of our 'living museum' here at Bransfield House! Our trusty archivist and museum curator has been identifying, photographing, cleaning and labelling new artefacts, as well as sorting through and ticking off old items from existing lists. On her return to the UK, Laura will spend a few days at the British Antarctic Survey in Cambridge updating records for items at Port Lockroy. Nikki meanwhile is holding off on a final stock take in the shop, as this needs to be left until fairly late in the day and we anticipate welcoming at least another dozen or so ships between now and closing the base. The boxes of stock that were sent down en masse at the start of the season have been steadily disappearing, and movement around the aisles in the boatshed has been a bit easier in recent weeks without fear of being engulfed in boxes of T-shirts and fleeces! As you know from previous diary entries, the shop is essential for raising funds for UKAHT and supporting the historic huts - a list of new ideas has been sent back to the UK for future stock lines, although the range of goodies on base is already very extensive! The team will also be busy with an inventory of supplies on the base - the more thoroughly we can do this, then the better prepared next year's team will be for the coming season - it is quite a big job to count every tin of beans, bag of pasta and roll of toilet paper!

Maintenance work here at Port Lockroy has been ongoing in between ship visits, with Rick venturing under the building (bringing to mind the film 'The Great Escape'!) in order to feed the gas pipe from the new stove under the floorboards and move the gas cylinder to the cupboard outside of the bunk room. This was no easy (or clean) job, thanks to the mess that the snowy sheathbills have made under there - some rather mucky overalls have been vanquished to a large black bin bag, ready for removal back to Ushuaia! Incidentally, many thanks to Quark Expeditions for the very helpful removal and recycling of waste from Port Lockroy over the season - a less than pleasant but very essential and much appreciated task! The exterior of the boatshed has seen a good coating of black bitumen paint thanks to Nikki and Rick, and the windows have also been treated with tender loving care. Each year there are various jobs that need to be done so that the buildings will survive another winter and stay in good shape, and we are pleased to have accomplished these in good time this season!

Just last week National Geographic Endeavour's Expedition Leader, Tim Soper, called with the offer to Rick of a lift down to Detaille, the old Base 'W', in the Marguerite Bay area. Rick was able to have a good look around Detaille, taking photographs and noting what work will be necessary to repair the house and return it to good condition. Endeavour's First Officer, Berndt, helped in removing snow from the building, and organised the ship's carpenters with assisting in some urgent and essential tasks, including repairing hinges on various doors and securing the building as best they could. It was an invaluable trip and the Trust is very grateful as ever to National Geographic and Lindblad's assistance this austral summer.

We have reached a new high in cordon bleu cuisine here at Port Lockroy, thanks to Dr Jack and his lovely wife Dr Jean, who we first met on the team's journey south. At that time, Laura's love of icecream became very clear, and this penchant has spread far and wide throughout the ships visiting us here at Port Lockroy (the Akademik Shokalskiy even offered a take-away service to our icecream-addict!). On National Geographic Explorer's last visit this year to Goudier Island, we were absolutely over the moon to receive a special present from Dr Jack & Dr Jean - an icecream maker! Our eyes have been opened to world of making icecream without electricity, specifically created for campers! Key ingredients are cream (longlife), rock salt, vanilla essence and lots of ice! Just incase Dr Jack & Dr Jean also snuck a dehydrated icecream bar for each of the team into their bag of goodies - a delicacy originally meant for astronauts! Our sweet tooths are truly satisfied now... Thank you!

A big thank you also to everyone who has sent some very creative and wonderful goodies south by post this season - highlights include green tights, malteser chocolates, wind-up salt & pepper shakers (hours of dinner-time fun!), pick 'n' mix sweets, clootie dumpling, lace snowflake decorations, birthday cake, hair dye, table-top games, all-singing all-dancing Mama Mia DVD and a surprise ultrasound scan photograph from one of Jude's friends! The last incoming post also contained a huge emergency supplies box of goodies from one of Jude's fellow passengers on the Ocean Nova last year -she is currently sitting at the bunkroom table working her way through the Reese's peanut butter cups, with a big smile on her face!

Just this morning we heard footsteps outside the bunkroom door, and were delighted to discover that they belonged to Daniel, a solo yachtsman onboard his ship 'Waterbird'. He looked like he might appreciate some of Nikki's home-baked ginger cookies and a nice hot cup of tea, after which Rick soon had him set to work on the base in the customary orange Dickies overalls! After travelling for two months on his own, we all enjoyed making him feel at home and treating him to a few Port Lockroy base comforts, including one of Rick's legendary curries.

It won't be long before the first gentoo chicks venture into the water. The young birds can be spotted by the odd tuft of fluff still attached to their backs or around their heads, their curious expressions and their slightly paler-coloured plumage. We still have plenty of very fat and fluffy chicks wandering around Goudier Island, making a spectacle of themselves to visitors. Nobody seems to have informed a particular group of our little friends of the 5-metre IAATO rule, and the odd one or two who have taken a shine to the path up to the house are particularly fond of rucksack straps, rubber boots and coat toggles! Although we and the expedition staff obviously keep a close eye that the wildlife is not disturbed by humans, the chicks' curiosity is unavoidable at times as they are learning about the white world around them. We have a good number of moulting penguins who have to be treated with the greatest respect, as they have little energy and are at a difficult and uncomfortable point in their cycle - unable to feed as their moulting feathers mean that they are not waterproof. Interestingly, like most animals, once they have grown, the adult penguins lose almost all interest in their human neighbours and with careful management of passengers they go about their business as if we were not here. The wellbeing of the penguins has to remain at the forefront of everyone's minds both living at and visiting Port Lockroy.

The evenings are certainly drawing in now, and we have had some cold nights, with grease ice forming around the back of the island and into Alice Creek. However just a few nights ago there was bizarrely an overnight temperature increase of an astonishing five degrees celsius. Whilst Rick and Laura were snoring softly, Jude and Nikki were awoken by the whole bunk room actually shaking to the roaring sound of ice crashing outside. Over the course of the season we have been watching a particularly fractured part of the glacier around the back of the bay sink closer and closer to the water - revealing a gaping blue crack in the white snow and ice. So ferocious was the incredible noise in the middle of the night, that we'd feared that the whole ice shelf had collapsed and that the yacht moored offshore from the control colony at the back of the island would be washed by ice and a large wave! Needless to say, we couldn't see anything in the relative dark, and the next morning there were some remnants of ice but the ice cliff was still there... The sharp change in temperature has set off plenty of activity around and about Port Lockroy! With the close of the summer we have seen the moon again for the first time in months, together with some absolutely stunning sunsets over Mount Doumer and out towards the southbound entrance to the Neumayer Channel. The light in the evenings has been stunning, reflecting golden onto the waters of the bay and hitting the Wall Range, Jabet's Peak and parts of the Fief Range in a truly spectacular glow. It is at times like these, sitting on our peaceful island full of gentoos, that it really hits home how special Port Lockroy is - a sentiment no doubt shared with the many generations of privileged people that have lived here on this tiny island. Until the Vavilov arrives to take us back to reality and the hustle and bustle of South America, we will continue to make the most of these last few days in our Antarctic home.

Letter From Lockroy - 10 February 2009

What an exciting few weeks we've been having here at Port Lockroy. At the beginning of the season Rick duly promised his 'delightful assistants' (as he refers to us in his shipboard talks) a fair few opportunities to head out and explore the area around Goudier Island, and he has stayed true to his word! Here at Port Lockroy we are fairly isolated on the island, as we do not have a boat or kayaks, so are always pleased to accept an offer of a quick whizz around in the zodiacs if the ships are not in a rush to head out of the area. Thanks to a little bit of free time in between ship visits, maintenance work and our usual chores, we have been out and about on a couple of special occasions, and been able to take in this spectacular white continent.

With the calmer weather and the lack of severe sea ice we have seen a good number of yachts and smaller vessels here at Lockroy over the past fortnight. These vessels are often either privately owned, or chartered to groups of individuals. It was great to see Stephen from M/Y Xplore down here at the end of January, enjoying another day of absolutely glorious sunshine. We had a good visit with his really friendly bunch of passengers (a very multi-lingual group!) and the girls were thrilled when Stephen offered for us to join Xplore in sailing the Peltier Channel that afternoon (none of the team had been further south than Goudier Island up to that point). What an absolute treat for us to be onboard such a beautiful yacht, cutting through incredibly still and reflective waters of the Peltier, with a feeling of being so close to the water, just taking it all in whilst chatting up on deck. Visibility was so clear that we could see right down to the start of the Lemaire Channel - so near yet so far! Around 4 1/2 miles down the channel, Stephen knew of a little anchorage with great views, alongside a gentoo penguin colony up on the rocks. The intention was to land at Doumer Island (which flanks the Peltier Channel), for a pleasant hike across to the old Chilean base, Yelcho. We all relished stretching our legs for a good long walk through the snow, and had a good look around Yelcho. The base is currently unoccupied, and is in a fair state of disrepair, however it was absolutely fascinating to have a peek inside. Jude, Laura & Nikki were impressed to see that there had once been a working shower, and individual bedrooms with bunks, as well as a second-level in the main house and a now ramshackle jetty outside for offloading supplies. It must have been wonderful to live there back in its heyday. There was a small gentoo penguin colony in front of the base, with far fewer chicks than back at home. There was quite a swell coming in, and we sat on the rocks just relaxing and chatting in the afternoon sun. After a hectic few days back at base with lots of ship visits, it was just what the doctor ordered. As we headed back to Xplore for a delicious dinner, the mountains were highlighted in the most beautiful shade of rose-pink by the sinking sun. A big thank you to Stephen, who brought us safely home in his dinghy. What an amazing sunset behind the Lemaire, and it was wonderful to navigate through the ice in the shadow of the Fief Range, the sight of the looming Wall Range welcoming us back to base.

Maintenance work here at Base 'A' has been progressing extremely well this season. All the windows are now repaired and repainted so that they will survive another harsh winter down here in the Antarctic. Rick took delivery of a lovely new window from Jeld-wen at the beginning of the season, and finally had time, penguins out of the way, and fair weather so that it could be fitted into the shop. The original existing window at the far right hand corner of the shop (standing at the doorway) was completely rotten and in desperate need of replacing, and so that was a very good job done! Rick made a new frame, and the new window fitted in perfectly. A big thank you to Jeld-wen for their continuing support of Port Lockroy!

Jude and Nikki had the pleasure of joining the team onboard Prince Albert II cruising down the Lemaire in early February. The vessel's Expedition Leader, Ignacio, took the opportunity of a stunning dusk to head down the channel after a visit to Port Lockroy. It was a real treat for us to dine with the team onboard, mingle with the guests and enjoy a truly wonderful evening, with the stark grey mountains set aglow on our journey south. The following morning we enjoyed a fantastic cruise around some gigantic sculpted icebergs at Pleneau, and our resident wildlife-spotter Jude picked out a crabeater seal on a smaller berg - sleepily relaxing in the warmth of the morning sun. Passengers were relaxing in the on-deck jacuzzis and enjoying hamburgers and champagne (!) as we cruised the Lemaire northbound in the sunshine and under bright blue skies. Jude and Nikki helped the team in treading and setting out flags for a path in the snow at Dorian Bay. Again, it was great to stretch our legs (and realise how we've been enjoying our food a little too much back at Lockroy!) on the hike up to the top of the ridge at Damoy Point. Looking down on Goudier Island we spotted a yacht visiting Laura and Rick on the base, and saw Rick up a ladder in his orange Dickies overalls continuing his work on the windows! Captain Peter and Ignacio joined us for a quick cup of tea and a chocolate biscuit back on the veranda at Bransfield House - a big thank you to Prince Albert II for a truly lovely sortie!

Rick and Laura have also been on an adventure! Just a few days ago the vessel Hanse Explorer kindly agreed to take them down to Wordie House, close to the Ukranian base Vernadsky (formerly the British Faraday station). Their mission was to take detailed measurements on Wordie House, which is in need of some attention; the roof in particular is leaking and the UKAHT is eager to begin repairs. Rick and Laura dashed around the base in the short time that they had there to take notes, and then returned to Port Lockroy the same evening - a lightening but interesting visit! Jude stepped into the breach and gave talks to the ships in Rick's absence, with Nikki answering questions from curious passengers.

On the wildlife front, we have been watching as the gentoo chicks have been becoming more bold and curious in their human neighbours! Like everyone at home in the UK, we have had some snow these past few weeks (although not the ten inches that we've heard tell of in the South of England!). The chicks have been adorable in their attempts to catch the falling snow; gazing up at the sky in wonderment!

Little do they know that they will have plenty of snowflakes to chase in their lives! We have awoken most colder mornings to find a gaggle of chicks lying on their bellies on the ramp, making the most of a comfy wooden mattress, which we suppose is warmer than the rocks! Laura and Jude counted 645 chicks on the island (both in the control area and where passengers are allowed to wander) - a good number and around the same figure as last year. One nesting pair even managed to raise three chicks - impressive but unusual! At this time of year the nests are now almost empty, bar a few late chicks that have hatched around a week ago - we hope that they will manage to fledge in time before the winter sets in! Clusters of chicks have formed creches on the path up to the house and also down by the boatshed. Most now have their distinct white 'bonnet' clearly visible, as it is their heads which moult first, followed by their backs and the tips of their wings. They look a little like half-shorn sheep with their adult waterproof coats appearing rapidly from beneath their down! We think that we have recognised Jude's favourite chick, 'Das Fussball', as he/she is almost completely free of fluff! Gentoos are members of the brush-tailed species of penguins, and the chicks now have their characteristic stiff bottom feathers developing. They are still portly and round and run after their parents in the steeple-chase for food! In this pursuit for regurgitated meals, the snowy sheathbills have been hanging around and on occasion knocking the chicks out of theway, so that the food falls on the rocks and they can hoover it up!

Sadly we have noticed a few more chicks falling prey to skuas, and have also had a visit from a Giant Petrel, feasting on the remains of an unlucky chick. Up close, it is amazing how these magnificent and very large brown and white dappled birds look so pre-historic.

We continue to witness very loud and impressive ice falls from the Harbour glacier beneath Jabet's Peak, and the ice cliff opposite the boatshed. Jude even managed to capture one such spectacular crash on her little camcorder! Thanks to some strong winds we have had ice sporadically blowing in and out of the bay, with some large icebergs drifting in from the Neumayer and Peltier Channels - Port Lockroy has been able to offer its own added bonus of an iceberg cruise to passing vessels!

Since our last diary entry here we have been graced with the presence of Miss China, who took part in a photo shoot at Jougla Point. Arriving onboard the Fram, she drew considerable attention in her flowing red (and strapless!) evening dress. Of course it was only reasonable for Rick to have his photo taken with her outside Bransfield House - his grin reached from ear to ear and lasted well into the next day! Other bizarre happenings at Lockroy include a karaoke-singing session with Expedition Leader John onboard Corinthian II. Who would have guessed that Captain Adam could give Elvis a run for his money! Rick, Jude and Laura were good sports and attempted ABBA's 'Dancing Queen' to a supportive applause. We should note here that we have never seen Laura move so fast - she was notably absent from the performance - one second she was leaning against a pillar, and the next couldn't be seen for dust! The next karaoke session will no doubt include a solo performance by Miss Ling... tut!

From, all the Port Lockroy Team

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