Port Lockroy Update
5th - 14th January 2010
One of the most common questions we get asked is 'but what do you do
all day???'. This really makes me smile and I think I can safely
speak for all of us when I say we have never been so consistently
busy in our lives! The big difference this last week however is
that due to the collaboration of two captains, two expedition
leaders and our own base leader, Anna, we managed to have our own
mini adventure and got whisked away late evening by our friends on
NG Explorer. Our destination... our American neighbours 12 miles
away on Palmer Station. We had a ship visit from Bremen booked the
following afternoon, but the Captain of NG Explorer liaised with the
Captain of Bremen and we were assured we would be back in time for
our afternoon visitors... somehow.
We grabbed our essentials, locked up the shop and zoomed off on
the zodiacs to arrive on the NG Explorer just in time for a
beautiful dinner and drinks. The weather was glorious and we
cruised down the stunning Neumayer Channel. Looking back at Port
Lockroy, our home became a tiny insignificant speck against the
glaciers under the magnificent Mt Jabet and Fief Range. It really
brought home to us how we really are in the middle of nowhere, and
not in the centre of Piccadilly Circus as it sometimes feels. An
hour later we were pulling up at Palmer Station and a few of the
Palmer Team came aboard to give a short talk on the scientific work
carried out at the base. Later that evening we were invited onto
the base to meet the rest of the crew. This involved some reverse
culture shock as along with their top notch laboratories, flushing
toilets and hot running water, they have a dedicated movie room
complete with a gargantuan screen, a wall of DVDs and a magnificent
range of leather reclining sofas, not to mention a bar with a
fantastic view overlooking some great glaciers!!!

The following morning we were able to visit an Adelie Colony on
the beautiful Torgersen Island, surrounded by snow covered
mountains, towering glaciers and those familiar belching sounds of
the beguiling elephant seals. If I had to anthropomorphise the
Adelies I would describe them as the party penguins of Antarctica.
They run around in a jaunty manner loudly calling to each other, and
look as though they have had a bit of a mad night out. As you know
we have had a couple of Adelie adventurers visit us on Port Lockroy
but we had never seen the chicks...until now. Is it possible for a
chick not to look absolutely gorgeous? Today was also a rare
opportunity to get some filming done and the skuas, penguins and
resident elephant seals did not disappoint.
We had enough time to head back to Palmer Station, do a little
shopping (to check out the competition you understand), have a tour
of the lab facilities, get our passports stamped and then sample the
famous Palmer chocolate brownies. Yumm.
It was then back to the Explorer and anchors aweigh as we headed
back down the Bismark Strait. Now for the really exciting bit... at
around 14:30, sporting our immersion suits, we disembarked the
Explorer into a zodiac. But this was no ordinary landing, and Port
Lockroy was nowhere in sight. With expedition leader Tim's immortal
words to our zodiac driver “make us proud Richard!” we had an
exhilarating zodiac ride across the choppy strait and into the
welcoming arms of the impressive Bremen. Ten minutes later we were
sipping cappuccinos in a continental style coffee shop watching the
glaciers as we sailed back down the Neumayer Channel.
The following day we were able to carry out a whole island count
of the chicks and eggs. Around 9% of the nests have been abandoned,
however one nest had three healthy bouncing chicks and Mrs Limpet's
egg had hatched. I am sorry to inform you that the once coveted
limpet shell had been kicked out of the nest. The weather has
continued to be glorious and finally we were able to eat lunch
outside again. This was also appreciated by one persistent
sheathbill, who after a countless number of failed frontal attacks
managed to covertly sneak around the back of our chairs, and make a
quick dash through our legs whilst spearing a piece of ham with its
beak. Ten points for cunning! The rest of the week has involved
visits from many yachts; continuing repainting the roof of the base;
reorganising the 'tardis' boatshed; and having a much welcomed
shower and our clothes laundered by the wonderful 'Fram'.
So once again, I bring you back to the original question...'but
what do you do all day?' and you will understand why it makes us all
smile.
Claire
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